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Who knows why he's winking?!

Eating

Choices are rather slim. Other than the Beresta Palace's restaurant, the only place worth visiting - indeed it's a must visit - is the Detinets restaurant in the kremlin's 14th century Pokrovsky Tower along the wall past the eternal flame. The upstairs restaurant serves excellent down-home Russian cuisine, and in the evenings there is live music. It's best to make reservations for the evening as it's popular with both tourists and locals. Open 11:00-23:00 (18:00-19:00). Tel: (816) (22) 74624.

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